Home Plastic Injection Molding With an Epoxy Mold.

by:Zhuangao     2019-12-05
I made an epoxy mold for an existing plastic product.
I can then copy that item using a home plastic injection molding machine.
This process should apply to many different types of projects or models.
Note that the original item must have a parting line without a cut.
This means that the model must be able to be divided into two halves, and the new molded parts can be easily removed from these two halves.
Here are the steps: Epoxy is two
Eventually harden into part of the liquid of the solid material.
To make the mold with epoxy, you need a frame to keep the liquid epoxy until it becomes hard.
The mold will consist of two and a half parts, so the frame must also be constructed into two and a half parts that fit together. This is a pre-
Aluminum mold frame I purchased from LNS Technologies
I could have tried making my own frame, but the frame is affordable and already has steel alignment pins to align the two halves. I super-
Stick a round piece of plastic to the model (a topical fish).
This is used to hang the fish in the cavity of the mold frame.
It also forms a channel (called a sprue)
This allows the melted plastic to enter the mold in the final injection step.
Note: This mold frame has cuts on all 4 sides, so I have to block the other 3 cuts.
However, I noticed the epoxy mold base on www. techkits.
Comwebsite has only one sprue cut now, so this may no longer be necessary.
I bought a quart and two.
Tap plastic epoxy resin (www. tapplastics. com).
It has two 8 oz bottles marked with Part A and Part B.
I mixed the equal part of A & B and be careful not to introduce bubbles in the mixture.
Tap also sells pigments that can be added to epoxy.
I added the black color powder in order to see the mold surface better after curing.
I then carefully poured the epoxy mixture into the mold frame to surround the tropical fish of 1/2.
Again, pour slowly to avoid creating bubbles in epoxy.
I put the model together with the epoxy and there was no interference overnight.
By the next day, the epoxy has been fully hardened and is able to remove the model to check the first half of the mold.
Before starting the second half of the epoxy mold, I had to apply a layer of automotive wax to the first half.
This prevents the second pouring of the liquid epoxy resin from combining with the first half.
Without this step I would end up with a large piece of epoxy instead of two halves that can be separated!
Then I put the fish model back in the frame & set the second half of the mold frame to the first half.
The second half of the mold frame has a top removable board that allows me to mix another batch of epoxy and then pour it into the first half. (
Sorry, I didn\'t take a photo of this second pouring step)Again.
I made the epoxy hard overnight.
Then I can pry open the frame in half (
Thanks for car wax)
Now I have the second half of the mold.
I hope you can see in the photo that epoxy is even able to get tiny print details on the side of the original item.
I have previously purchased an injection molding machine with a model of 50a from LNS Technologies.
Affordable, easy to use.
I put two halves of the epoxy frame mold together.
The frame has steel alignment pins that automatically align two and a half.
I stuck the mold on the model and injected some yellow melted plastic into the epoxy mold.
Well, it\'s better than I thought!
Open the epoxy mold and find that the newly formed parts are basically the same as the original parts (
Minus the stripes of the painting, of course).
I injected several more fish with this epoxy mold & haven\'t noticed any degradation on the details yet.
I don\'t think the epoxy mold will be as durable as a solid aluminum or steel mold, but it does look like a simple low
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